La coccinelle-Duroxmanie


Nice weekend in font with super conditions!
Me, Nat, Eisbar and Bandit set of friday evening for 2 days of climbing if font.
We arrived at 1 in the morning at rocher canon parking, went to bed and woke up at 7.00pm when Bandit wanted to wake up.

We decided to drive to Buthier.
I decided to try la coccinelle its a 7c+/8a traverse in buthiers (trav grade).
Many say it is very soft for the grade but i have had to fight my way through this one.




I consider it being morpho (a tad easier if you are smaller).
For me it is impossible to do a toe hook dyno move to the sloper in the crux.
I had to heel-hook and do a more static move to the sloper pinch.




We met up with Benjamin, Steven, Jan, Derzou and Unting.
Nat tried 'les monos' what is in a name...
she got very close on it but couldnt bag it.
Jan finished his project "iceberg aller-retour"! congrats
I managed to climb "la coccinelle" after a few good tries and warm-up.
After this i wanted to see "partage".
Me and Benjamin decided to try it, but without beta we didnt get far.
Then it was time for "Appartenance", quite a high boulder.
What a beauty this one !! i had never tried it. It has no real hard moves but the harder bit is high up.
I managed to fall badly and sprain my ankle, after 15 minutes a had grown an egg on the side of my foot!! I decided to tape it and continue climbing....

I got very close on it but was to scared to fall on my injured foot again to commit.
Next time i will try again. Appartenance has entered my all time top 5 boulders.

Sunday started promising with some good tries in "atresie" with jan.
We worked it for a couple of hours till we had to give in to the rock.
Next time this one is for the first day.
Nat finished up the sunday climbing duroxmanie a highball-beauty in cuvier-est.
Cheers everyone and happy climbing.

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