Sacrebleu 8a

Sacrebleu is a very old French profanity meant as a cry of surprise or happiness!

Other sources propose it coming from old blasphemous curses relating to God,used from the late Middle-Age (some are attested as early as the 11th century) to the 14th (at the latest), with many variants: morbleu or mordieu, corbleu, palsambleu, jarnidieu, tudieu, respectively standing for mort [de] Dieu (God's death), corps [de] Dieu (God's body), par le sang [de] Dieu (by God's blood, the two latter possibly referring to the Eucharistic bread and wine), je renie Dieu (I deny God), tue Dieu (kill God)... Those curses may be compared to the archaic English [God']sdeath, sblood, struth or zounds (God's wounds). They were considered so offensive that Dieu was sublimated into the similar sounding neutral syllable bleu. The verb sacrer has several meanings, including to crown, to anoint, to name someone [champion, best actor, etc.], and in the past, rarely in France but more common in French Canada, of swear, curse. Therefore, sacrebleu could be in modern French Je jure par Dieu and in English I curse by God, or the more used I swear to God.

T-rex assis

The weather in font wasn't good at all last week, but i managed to squeeze in a couple of climbing days.
Finally sent T-res assis!

T-rex assis (8a/+) from STEELFINGERS on Vimeo.

BBC setting

After travelling i had to get back on track with work and training.
First i had to do the boulder setting for the second round in the "Belgian boulder cup", a qualifying round for the Belgian nationals.
This was my first National comp as Chief route setter. The challenge of creating 30 boulders that suit: juniors, seniors men and women with varied styles and difficulty is not just hard its EXTREMELY hard.
Setting for a recreational competition is though and when you make mistakes the consequences are minor.
When setting for a comp in this format where contestants only have 5 attempts per boulder and you have to take many things into consideration (morphology,style and strengths of younger and female climbers)and on top of that making it interesting/spectacular for the crowd is very challenging.
In the end it turned out to be a great competition according to the participating climbers, i am looking forward to doing it again (next year..)

Silvretta and boulder of the week

In our last 2 weeks of vacation we decided to go bouldering in Switserland. Unfortunately just before leaving we heard the parking in MW was completely full and the weather forecast was not in our favor. We were low in funds so paying 7 euro p/p for a parking spot in the rain and dixie toilets seemed a bit silly. The only place that had decent weather was Silvretta in Austria. To my surprise we could climb the 6 full days of our stay despite the rain. Silvretta is good fun for a week with steep hikes and decent bouldering. The grades are VERY friendly.
Just for fun i made this list of easy tick crags for people looking to do their "first of the grade":
1. Silvretta
2. Rocklands
3. Albaracin
4. Targassonne
5. Cresciano
6. Hueco Tanks/ Magic woods
7. Peak district
8. Hampi
9. Chironico
10. Happy's (Bishop)

To be clear this is from easy to hard in my personal opinion. As you can see Fontainebleau is not in the top 10 ;).
From now on i will stop making long movies but instead post a " Boulder of the week".
This is the first boulder of the week: Niviuk 8a vers uit Silvretta

Rocklands 2015

Saving the best for last! Having visited most of the top tier bouldering spots in the world, we still had to tick Rocklands off the bucket list.
We flew into Capetown on the 23 of June, where Ander and Val picked us up in our shared rental car. After a quick stop at the Wellness shop (organic produce and health store) we were ready for the 3 hour drive passed Clanwilliam into the Pakhuys campsite.
I had had seen and heard of the amazing boulders opened here by Fred Nicole, Klem and Dave, but the boulders were even better than i had dreamed of.
The potential for bouldering here is so huge that when you overlook part of Cederberg from the Pass you can't even count the amount of boulders on the slopes and hillsides...
Normally we start out by sampling and climbing classics in our first week of a trip ,this time however i felt so comfortable on the rock that even the harder lines went down quickly.
Some days climbing felt so comfortable that i managed to climb up to four 7c+ and an 8a in a day.
Rocklands bouldering surely feels like the best in the world and comes close to beating Font for 1st place.
I soon found the cherry tick of the trip called: "Mooiste meisje" 8b/+, opened by Fred Nicole in 2005.
Not repeated because of a broken hold until 2009, Emi M.did the FA after the break and considered it solid 8b+.
At first i thought this might be to hard for me with only 2 weeks left, but after climbing on it the first day i could quickly do the crux section, and it actually felt possible.
It took me about 4 days to wait for perfect conditions and sent it!

Nat's had some amazing days, sending multiple 7b's and 7b+'s in a day.
We are planning our next trip to Rocklands asap :)

Peak District

Coming back from Mexico we had to pick up our dog from Edinburough. After this we drove drive all the way south to Folkstone to get the Tunnel. I guessed on the way we could just as well pass by Sheffield and have a day in the Peak! Although we didn't have any crashpads we decided to go have a look anyway as the weather was amazing for this crag. We met Ollie and we could share a climb he was trying called zippies traverse around 7b, we hadn't been climbing for 4 weeks it still went down quite fast, how amazing is it to climb on grit, hard to describe it... After this Ollie had to leave and we had to pick lowballs with flat landings... We didn't have to search for long for Captain Hook, another classic 7b in Stanage was just around the corner, next time i will surely give Brad pitt a try!