This trip i really wanted to do "deep throat" 8b in magic wood.Last year i thought i was close on it doing it in two parts.
But now nothing felt right, you could blame it on the 7 days of rain we had or on the general humid conditions but no i still just wasnt strong enough! Not that it was worse,i could still do all the moves seperate and the crux felt easier than last time but to link it i will have to go back.I tried to get a peak in my form for this trip and had done a lot of crimpy boulder problems in the gym. I feel 2 weeks just isnt long enough for decent projecting, we like to chill out and take our time. In a 2 week period you need to rush to fit everything in.first adapting to rock and getting muscle memory on the projects,then if you get unlucky with the weather everyting gets messed up! Positively i felt i had improved on the swiss crimps,so i must have done something right. It felt good to know im still learning and improving!I decided to shake around the training system i have now and see how it will pay off in the next months.We are going to do some route climbing in Slovakia with Stanley in july so we will have to prepare some endurance for that trip! I think its a nice change! Also planning to go do routes in thailand, nat and i both have unfinished projects there...Its like bouldering on ropes.Good news is i did send some nice problems:free for all 8a, super nova 7c, la grotte des soupirs 7c+and some easier boulders.So it wasnt the trip of the hard boulderproblems but a trip of enjoying. Eisbar (our dog) of course had the most fun, he loves jumping and running around!The house we rented with jan and gina came with free use of sauna and swimming pool in the nearby hotel (all of this cheaper than staying at the camping)!Here some pics of me and one of nat sending crimp o phobia 7b and a movie of la grotte :D
But now nothing felt right, you could blame it on the 7 days of rain we had or on the general humid conditions but no i still just wasnt strong enough! Not that it was worse,i could still do all the moves seperate and the crux felt easier than last time but to link it i will have to go back.I tried to get a peak in my form for this trip and had done a lot of crimpy boulder problems in the gym. I feel 2 weeks just isnt long enough for decent projecting, we like to chill out and take our time. In a 2 week period you need to rush to fit everything in.first adapting to rock and getting muscle memory on the projects,then if you get unlucky with the weather everyting gets messed up! Positively i felt i had improved on the swiss crimps,so i must have done something right. It felt good to know im still learning and improving!I decided to shake around the training system i have now and see how it will pay off in the next months.We are going to do some route climbing in Slovakia with Stanley in july so we will have to prepare some endurance for that trip! I think its a nice change! Also planning to go do routes in thailand, nat and i both have unfinished projects there...Its like bouldering on ropes.Good news is i did send some nice problems:free for all 8a, super nova 7c, la grotte des soupirs 7c+and some easier boulders.So it wasnt the trip of the hard boulderproblems but a trip of enjoying. Eisbar (our dog) of course had the most fun, he loves jumping and running around!The house we rented with jan and gina came with free use of sauna and swimming pool in the nearby hotel (all of this cheaper than staying at the camping)!Here some pics of me and one of nat sending crimp o phobia 7b and a movie of la grotte :D
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