Total Freak 8a FA

3 days of sweet bouldering in font with my wifey, Siem, Jonas en Jan.
On Thursday i was very motivated to do FA of the extension to "Freak of the weak" 7c+
opened by Kees Mak in Avon.
This is a 4 star problem on the roof of "Basta". Start sitting on the left of the low ledge (sitstart as for Rasta) and traverse right (7a+/b) to the start of "Freak of the Weak" 7c/+, and finish in that one.
I managed to do the climb in 2 parts a few weeks ago and did it quite fast this time.
It is hard to grade for now because the current methods are quite morpho, it feels as hard as L'atelier, Coccinelle, abe-res carnage combi....to me so ill keep it at 8a.
It is a 5-star line in my opinion, so go try it.

Nat sent "Pasta" 7a i opened last month on the same bloc in her very own style! And to think i thought the crux would prove way to morpho...


Friday i wanted to try "Modulor accroupi" in Sablons, a nice fridge that requires a span of minimum 1.80m...
Nonetheless that is no problem as i have about 1.90 :D.
What i dont understand is why this is not just simply a sit start because that is the only thing that is not morpho on this boulderproblem.


After this Jones and Jan arrived and we decided to check out "le Kraken" 7c in Rocher de Milly, this one is not yet on bleau.info but i saw it in "Out of sight" the movie from Neil Hart and i really liked the look of it.
After a 20 min walk we found the boulder and indeed it is an awesome problem. Tony Foucherou has opened about 20 new problems around there that are not jet public. The Kraken has 3 version a left for 7b+ with a direct on it that should be slightly harder for 7c, and the classic right exit for 7c. We started to try and it took us a while to find the beta but i was happy to manage them both, also 4 star problems!


Saturday we wanted to check out la mare aux joncs in cocquibus because i had never been there, i was looking forward to climb "coup de patte". Jan G. knew his way around in this area like in most areas in Bleau and was going to show me the bloc and the beta, but before we arrived we spotted a really nice boulder that needed urgent cleaning :D.
And a jem it proved to be.
We only managed to do the stand for "Ghostrider" 7c(7b+) but we will be back for the sit that proved to be to hard for that day.


Thanks to Nat for all the filming and love.